Wazungus on Safari

Saturday morning after rounding in the hospital, Aurelie and I were picked up in an antique looking pea green land cruiser and were whisked away to Lake Nakuru, a national park about 2 hrs from Kijabe. I enjoyed seeing the Kenyan countryside with its endless fruit stands (each selling little towers of potatoes), amusing signage (“beach hotel” nowhere near the beach), and many Kenyan children wearing knit ski hats. We even saw our first zebras right off the highway. Highway travel in Kenya can be harrowing. At any given time, about 50% of the cars are passing on the wrong side of the road which makes for an armrest-gripping, palm-sweating experience.

We arrived at Lake Nakuru to the greeting of “bye wazungus!” from two litte Kenyan boys. Wazungu means "white people" in Swahili (or possibly "British or Europeans" per the Swahili phrase book). While several species are endangered at Lake Nakuru, there is no shortage of wazungus. Shortly after we were greeted at the game lodge by security guards (with herbal hot towels and passion fruit juice), a deluge of wazungus descended. Swarms of older wazungus sporting khaki canvas zip off pants with matching mesh vests checked in after we did. The combined power of all their telephotos lenses could likely view the outer solar system. I must admit that this is pretty much the pot calling the kettle black since Aurelie and I were nearly matching outfits -khaki roll up pants, fleece jackets, and brightly colored sneakers. (We are keeping a tally on the number of times we get asked if we’re sisters…2 so far.) REI could definitely shoot their next catalogue at the Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge.

The evening’s activities included a short “game drive” through the park scouting animals – buffalo, antelope, baboons, warthogs, and waterbuck. Then the lodge put on some traditional Kenyan dancing at sunset. We sat in the front row and were invited to the stage by the Maasai warriors (despite agreeing that we were NOT going up there). I tried to mirror my dance partner, and, sadly, our moves looked something like a cross between the chicken dance and a do-si-do. It was quite entertaining to look out on the fleece and khaki crowd shaking it with the Maasai, although some of the wazungus were really good! For dinner, we had an extravagant buffet with Kenyan barbeque, Indian food, tropical fruit, and endless desserts. A Kenyan guitarist wearing a camouflaged Seattle sombrero and tye-dyed hippie shirt serenaded us at dinner with Beatles (Let it be) and John Denver (Country Road) tunes. (No Jack Johnson as requested by the table next to us). We retired to a lovely bungalow with mosquito netting draped about the beds.

At 6:30am when the animals are supposed to be active, we left for another game drive. The rhinos (both black and white) were plentiful, if a bit sleepy. Also saw a lot of interesting birds – guinea hens, eagles, storks. After breakfast, we went on another game drive ---about 5 hrs of driving! I think our driver Joe was determined to find a lion for us, but no such luck. I really enjoyed the greater and lesser flamingos. Lesser flamingos are less pink. Just when I thought the game drive was over and we weren’t going to see any giraffes, two long necked Rothschild’s giraffes appeared. The giraffes and rhinos seem almost mythical. Between the giraffes and the zebras, I have a whole new respect for animal print. I, like many wazungus, am a sucker for charismatic marcofauna. Even the dikdik –a “tiny hare-like antelope” was charming! Looking forward to big cats, hippos, and elephants when we go to the Mara at the end of the month! (Would love to post pictures and videos of animals walking/muching, but didn't bring my camera cord!)

Being in Africa is like living in another world where we don’t need to eat or sleep. I sleep maybe 4 hrs/night and wake up (unfortunately) several hrs before work. Not sure if it’s still jet lag or my chronic insomnia. I’m not tired during the day but then feel like I’ve pulled an all-nighter by about 8 pm. We also eat a light breakfast, work through lunch, feel ravenously hungry at dinner, and then are satisfied by a small amount of food. Maybe it’s the altitude? Hopefully after another week in Kijabe, we’ll have adjusted.

More Tales from the Maternity Ward to come with my first call on Tuesday!